We finished our tour around the Coromandel Peninsula in Whitianga, where we bought tickets on a bus to take us back to Thames. We covered the distance in a little less than two hours, but with the hills in between it would have taken us at least two days on our bikes. We had plans to head down to Te Aroha and we decided to take advantage of the Hauraki Rail Trail, one of New Zealand's great cycleways. Our bus arrived in Thames around 2pm and we covered the 33 kilometers to Paeroa much faster than we expected, even with a little detour to the Cheese Barn outside Matatoki for some fancy cheese and homemade ice cream. Since we couldn't find a suitable place to camp and we were way ahead of schedule, we decided to head another 7 kilometers down a side trail towards Waihi before camping in an empty car park outside of Karangahake Gorge. We had our rainiest night yet, but our tent held up just fine, and we stayed warm and dry through the night. The next morning we packed up camp and headed down one of the many walking trails along the gorge. The area was rich in gold mining history and there were ruins, relics and old machinery from the mining operations everywhere. We went on a short walk on a narrow path down the gorge and headed up a set of stairs to the Windows Walk, an old mine shaft carved into the mountain with holes overlooking the gorge that were used for dumping waste rock down into the river below. We hadn't brought our headlamps which turned out to be a good thing since without our slow shuffle through the dark we probably wouldn't have seen the glowworms hanging like miniature stars from the ceiling of the tunnel. We headed back along the trail and collected our bikes before heading back to the Rail Trail and down towards Waikino. The next section of trail passed through a long, dark tunnel cut through the mountain and then opened up to rolling farmland before passing through the Victoria Battery Site, more ruins from the gold-mining days. We spent so much time enjoying the scenery that we arrived in Waihi with just enough time to take a quick look around before turning around and riding the 14k back to our previous campsite. We woke up in the morning to a rooster right outside our tent who was kind enough to inform us that it was 8am, and we packed up and headed back towards Paeroa to find some breakfast and visit the library. We were able to spend a few hours charging our batteries and surfing the internet before jumping back on the trail and riding the last 21 kilometers to Te Aroha. We had reservations at Te Arhoa Landing for the following night, so we headed a few minutes out of town and got permission from another farmer to spend the night in his field. We were treated to an amazing sunset at our most scenic campsite since our first night in Kawakawa Bay. We enjoyed sleeping in and wandering around Te Aroha this morning before checking in to our river chalet just after 1. This is our first night indoors since we arrived in Auckland, and our first real shower in almost a week, so we were more than excited to take advantage of all the luxury. We're staying in a small unit right on the river with our own kitchen, bathroom and enormous bed. We splurged at the grocery store and cooked an enormous meal that we ate on our porch while we watched the ducks swim in the river. Our booking included a 30 minute private mineral bath at Te Aroha Spa, where we got to relax our tired muscles and soak away all the soreness, and we're currently watching The Hobbit on the TV in our room to prepare for our trip to the Shire tomorrow, since our booking also included tickets for an afternoon tour. See more pictures here!
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After a rest day in Thames to recharge our batteries (physically as well as all of our electronics!) we set off straight across the peninsula via the Tapu-Coroglen road. The morning started out fairly flat along the coast, but as soon as we turned inland the road began to climb. One or two small hills later we lost pavement and began a long steep trek up a narrow, winding gravel road. We wound our way up the mountain painfully slowly under the intense mid-day sun, but we were rewarded by spectacular views of the ocean behind us to remind us how far we had come. About 3/4 of the way up the hill we pulled off and escaped into the shade of the forest for a short hike up to Square Kauri tree to take a break from the sun and eat our lunch. The 10 minute hike was steep, but well worth the spectacular view of the valley below us and the enormous ancient tree. When we reached the top of the hill we had a new set of challenges to face. The hill was just as steep and the turns just as tight on the way down, and the loose gravel made it difficult to control our heavy bikes. Each of us has about 40lbs of gear in addition to our own weight and the steel frames, so if we entered a hairpin turn with any speed we risked skidding either off the cliff or into oncoming traffic. We spent the majority of the descent on our brakes, and it took so long to get down that both of our hands were tired by the end. About 4 hours after we started across the peninsula we popped out at Coroglen, and from there it was a relatively easy (paved!) 16k to the beach town of Hahei. We set up camp at the Hahei Motor Park right on the beach, and just over the dune from our tent site were the most spectacular views. We decided to spend three days and two nights in Hahei since it was centrally located to all of the things we wanted to do on the eastern side of the peninsula. We took a swim in the ocean to rinse off all the dust and sweat from the day, and treated ourselves to dinner and some local beers at the Pour House that night. The next morning we ate breakfast on the beach, then took off for an easy 10k ride down to Hot Water Beach. Our bikes felt incredibly light without all of our baggage, but the headwind still made it a tougher ride than we would have hoped. We timed our visit to Hot Water Beach to coincide with low tide and we rented a shovel from a local shop to dig a hole just along the shoreline and look for the thermal waters the beach is named for. The first hole we dug filled in with water, but we were disappointed to find that it was hardly any warmer than the ocean. We thought maybe the hot water was a bit of an exaggeration, so we soaked in our little kiddy pool and just enjoyed the view, until we heard rumors of hotter water further down the beach. Turns out just 10 feet over from where we were digging the water was so warm that people were dumping buckets of seawater into their holes to make it bearable, and if you stood on the sand too long it would scald your feet. We dug another hole, and watched the hot water bubble up from the sand below until we had our very own natural hot-tub right on the beach. We relaxed our sore legs until the rising tide invaded and then we biked home. The next morning we had planned on renting paddle boards, but we woke up to threatening skies, heavy winds and rough seas so we decided to switch gears and explore the ocean by motorboat instead. We packed up all of our things and stashed our bikes in some bushes before walking down the beach to meet the Hahei Explorer boat. We got to sit right in the bow, and it was quite an exciting ride bouncing across the heavy swells. We caught a good bit of air a few times! The boat took us down to the marine reserve, stingray bay and cathedral cove before swinging out to some of the outlying islands. We passed through several sea-caves and inside a massive blowhole before making our way back to the beach. Once back on dry land we took a walk down the beach to investigate a rope swing we has spotted the day before, tied to a tree hanging over the cliff. We spent almost an hour climbing up a large rock and jumping off to swing out over the ocean and back again, before we decided it was probably time to go check on our bikes. Our plan was to head out of town and towards Cooks Beach, but we decided to take a detour on the way and hike out to Cathedral Cove so we could explore it a little more. The ride to the trailhead was up a very steep hill, and both of us were still feeling the effects of the last hill we had conquered, but the effort paid off with spectacular views from the top of the cliff. We hiked down towards Stingray Bay and spent some time wading in the shallows with the stingrays, trying not to pull a Steve Irwin. There were also urchin, starfish, crabs and snails hanging out in the tide pools in the rocks. From there it was a 40 minute hike to Cathedral Cove, back up over the cliff and through some dense forest before winding back down to the beach. There were plenty of cool rock formations in the water and several arches and caves to explore before heading back up the trail towards our bikes. We learned that Cathedral Cove was the filming location for the second Narnia movie, so we'll have to go back and watch it again to see if we recognize anything. We made our way back down the hill and out of town, and several kilometers down the road a kind farmer offered us a place to camp in his kiwi orchard and we were grateful to have a free place to sleep for the night. The next morning we rode the last few Kilometers to Cooks Beach, where we met up with Shanan who rented us some paddle boards so we could explore the coastline. We paddle to a place called Lonely Bay, where the beach was covered with shells, many of them worn into almost perfect rings that would make excellent jewelry. We spent almost an hour collecting shells and hiking up to the top of Shakespeare Cliff to enjoy the view before hopping back on the boards. We paddled around the next corner and into a sea cave where the calm water let us relax on the boards for a while without floating away with the current. We also paddle down along the beach and up a river full of stingrays and starfish before Shanan picked us up and gave us a ride back to our bikes. We rode out of Cooks Beach toward Ferry Landing to take the ferry across to Whitianga, and met a nice gentleman who kindly paid for our tickets when he saw us scrounging for coins to make the fare. Just another in a long line of incredibly friendly and helpful people we've met along the way! Whitianga is one of the bigger towns on the Coromandel Peninsula, and we decided to take a bus from there back to Thames to head South on the Hauraki Rail Trail to save ourselves a few days of slogging up and down massive hills. To see more pictures from our adventures on the Coromandel Peninsula check out the photo post.
We left the US at 1pm on the 26th and arrived in Auckland at 5am on the 28th, and since we crossed the international dateline that meant we skipped Thanksgiving (the 27th) this year. Our arrival in Auckland went pretty smoothly, we had no problems getting through customs and the international terminal had free showers so we were able to freshen up a bit before heading out. We took a cab directly to Adventure Cycles, and spent the day working with the guys to pick out bikes. We had been under the impression that we would be able to buy bikes and leave the city that day, but that was not exactly the case. All the bikes there needed quite a bit of work before they were ready to tour with, so we ended up stuck in Auckland for 4 days before we were able to get on our way. We used our time to pick up a few last minute items, sort out our phones and prepare for the first leg of our tour. Once our bikes were ready, we headed South through the confusing streets and suburbs of Auckland, and spent several hours trying to find our way. After a lot of aimless wandering with a bad map and picking up bits of directions and advice from friendly passers by (including the nicest police officer I've ever met), we stopped for lunch and were able to use WiFi to get on the right track. Once we were headed in the right direction we covered a lot of ground pretty quickly, and we passed through Clevedon before spending our first night in a sheep farmers field right on the ocean in Kawakawa Bay. We had covered 82k in a little over 5 hours. We woke up the next morning to sunny skies and a bunch of sheep being herded out the gate next to our tent and down the road for grazing. Since neither of us has done much cycling in the past couple of years we decided to just head 15k to Orere Point so we could set up camp early and have a bit of a rest day. We met our first serious climb right outside of Kawahara, a steep 3k hill with hairpin turns that make us question every ounce of baggage on our bikes. The rest of the road was mostly just small rolling hills, and we made it to Orere Point in a little over an hour. We stayed at a campground just a few minutes from the beach, and enjoyed a cool dip in their swimming hole in the river before taking a walk along the beach. The ocean here is an amazing shade of turquoise and it contrasts beautifully with the emerald green hills rising up from the coast. Our route yesterday took us 78k right along the coast around the Firth of Thames, past a lake full of black swans, coastal marine reserves, through Miranda Hot pools and into Thames. We stopped for lunch along the beach, and rode the last few kilometers into Thames on the Hauraki Rail Trail. Thames is an old gold-mining town and its the first town with real amenities that we've been to since Auckland. We've decided to take a rest day here today and spend some time sightseeing, researching the next leg of our journey towards Coromandel, and getting back in touch with the outside world. For more pictures, check out the Photo post. |
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